The August "Tatler" - a magazine with an enviable fate. I can see it next to the Prada sunglasses and sun dauber Lancaster. It takes precious beds during lunch somewhere in the Saint-Tropez and Sardinia. And here is the restaurant's customers Suite de! Mar in Marbella, obediently waiting for the queue to browse. That summer, in France, Italy, Spain, laying the Xia standards requirements of our restaurant, "Ah, home to a fish, maslinku, langustinku! "
It will not work. The climate is not the same. But there is good news Chiyah. So far, all resting in Moscow opened two restaurants are right-Luciano and WhiteRabbit.
They have a common address, Smolensky Passage, but a respectable Luciano - on the second floor, and a cheerful "Rabbit" - on the roof.
Their owners and co-authors - Constantine and Alexander Ivlev Zaturinsky. In the passage the cook Ivlev, finally, enough pofantaziruet the Italian and French subjects.So happy my husband and Constantine had not seen for a long time. His Russian troika is as follows: a maximum of domestic products, modernized methods of cooking, colorful presentation. Ivlev's handwriting I recognized at once. The creator of a new Russian cuisine dish combines big chunks of the natural product with details of the products of the complex, exquisitely prepared. For example, duck breast with a crust (990 rubles). In the Rabbit is good in itself, but it Ivlev stuffed chicken liver and submits to paradise apples and Calvados sauce. There is such a dish is not only delicious, but interesting. And jumping happily eat with a fork: a slice of the breast - a slice of apple - a piece of something complex.
Like most of the world's best chefs, cook Ivlev went home, my mother, and still likes to sit in her kitchen. Over a long career, he proved that he can feed the people "based on" Food around the world, but "Russianness" it will not go away. He is skillful game at the junction of the Mediterranean and the great national cuisine.
Gnocchi, say, like dumplings or lazy pierogi. In "Luciano" to them mushroom sauce served with the smell of Russian forests and onions, fried on crispies to the Baltic-style (430 rubles).. Summer lettuce, tomato juice where get soaked The dried bread - it is known, Tuscan panzanella. But Ivlev takes for her favorite Muscovites Baku tomatoes, sweet onion Yalta, and obtained "a village salad" (320 rubles). With olive oil and chiabatoy. Do not miss the salad of young zucchini and sun-dried tomatoes and Grana Padano, (340 rubles). Because it has soaked in lemon water is not bitter European zucchini, and our family, blond, delicate zucchini.
You can come to "Luciano" and for Neapolitan pizza from the oven with the heat Radus six hundred, which swells the dough itself, without yeast. Best-"Buffalo" (620rub.). In "Rabbit" - a menu with a French accent. I am delighted with foie gras and mini cabbage. They are again not in savoy cabbage and russkoĭ - cabbage (620 rubles).. Here, the Brer Rabbit, there are extra bonuses, see Moscow through the glass dome and a wine list that deserves praise nesderzhannoĭ. Yet there is kablukastye girls and other interesting oldsiteations, which, after a hearty meal can be considered quite good-naturedly.

Tatler, august 2011


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